Hockey Stick Breakdown—Guide to Buying a Hockey Stick
Hockey Stick Breakdown—Guide to Buying a Hockey Stick
Written by Katie Lakusta
Hockey sticks are constantly changing and developing—likely the most of any hockey equipment. Manufacturers and players are always experimenting with new "ideal" weights, heights, and kick points that best suit your game.
You can try out sticks at The Hockey Shop before you buy them, and you can always hold them at your local store to get an idea of how they feel, but where do you begin? If you don’t have convenient access to a store, testing gear could be difficult. That’s where this guide comes in.
Remember that hockey sticks, like all gear, must speak to you and you only. It doesn’t matter if your buddy or even your coach says you have to switch to a CCM Tacks or Bauer Supreme stick just because you’re a defenseman.
It’s all about personal preference and playstyle. Even the smallest of changes can have major effects on your puck control and stickhandling. It may take time to find that perfect stick for you, but with the added help from this guide, we at The Hockey Shop assure that we can help get you there faster.
Things to Consider
Here are a few things to consider before you shop for a hockey stick:
The following are what we will be covering in this guide:
- • Stick Material/Type
- • Flex Rating
- • Flex/Kick Point
- • The “Danger Zone”/Stick Breakage
- • Blade Curve
- • Blade Lie
- • Shaft
The easiest approach to take is to recognize your own playstyle and preferences. Some players play more offensively than others and may benefit more from a stick that specializes in that area, for example. Others may just like the feel of a low kick stick more.
Stick Material / Type
The first thing we’ll start with is stick materials. Sticks today are generally made of either composite or wood.
Wood Sticks
Traditional sticks back in the day were all wood, and for the nostalgic player, these sticks have managed to stand the test of time. They may feel noticeably heavy (nearly 3 times as much) compared to modern sticks, but it makes up for that with its durability and more budget-friendly price.
If you can find a good one (they are a bit rare nowadays), wood sticks may be a decent option for younger players. These sticks work well for kids because they usually cost less than $50 at most and are not that much heavier than their composite counterparts at younger levels.
The stick’s weight and lack of features may affect performance as you or your child rises up in level, so it may be worth investing in a lighter, more advanced stick when they or you start to get better at the game.
Composite Sticks
These sticks get the label “composite” from being made of varying types of materials, usually carbon fibre and fibreglass. These elements are much lighter in weight than wood, but they do sacrifice some durability for better performance and ease of use. Their construction also tends to be much more expensive than wood.
However, composite sticks will improve your game. In a game that is constantly speeding up, some of the most effective tactics to strengthen one’s game are to reduce stick weight and add new, optimized tech to equipment. These sticks are far more common than wood nowadays, and they are also better at flexing and on the energy transfer. Kick points are also much more refined in composite sticks than wood.
Shaft
In terms of length, you will not only want to keep in mind your height, but also the flex you want. Before purchasing a stick, determine how long it will be once you cut it to your size. Cutting off more of the stick will result in a stiffer stick, or higher flex.
Shaft height is another preference thing. When standing in skates, most players will have their stick cut somewhere between their chin and their nose. Some players will play with longer sticks than that; likewise, others may prefer shorter cuts. Generally, longer sticks complement defensive play, whereas shorter sticks will complement offensive play. If you’re not sure or are nervous about cutting your stick, you can always start with a longer stick and cut more of the shaft off later as needed. You also always have the option of adding a stick extension to the end of the shaft if the stick is too short.
Shaft geometry and grip may be other factors for you to consider when deciding on a stick. Lower-end sticks may only vary in having a soft gloss grip or none at all (clear finish). Higher-end or middle-grade sticks could differ in their entire shape and grip texture. With CCM’s Ribcor Trigger 6 Pro, for example, the shaft varies in shape across the entire shaft to balance certain areas and keep others more mobile. In the same vein, Bauer’s Nexus series features a pentagon-shaped shaft for anatomical control.
One-Piece Sticks vs. Two-Piece Sticks
One-piece hockey sticks will be on the higher end of performance and feel. They give a noticeable connection between you and the puck, making it easier to control every aspect of your gameplay. They also feature the most tech, with some extra additions in their hosel. They do come at a notable cost, however, which is usually a little more than twice the price you would pay if you were to buy the blade and shaft of the same stick separately and piece them together yourself.
Unlike most DIY projects you may see circulating online, piecing together a two-piece hockey stick can actually save you a considerable amount of money. In addition, if either piece breaks, all you need to do is buy a new piece without needing to replace the entire stick. This option also comes with much more customization. If you struggle to find the specs you like in the one-piece variation, looking for the specs individually between shaft and blade pieces can be a good idea.
However, it’s important to note that two-piece sticks are an overall downgrade in performance. One-piece sticks can provide better velocity on shots because the manufacturers have more freedom to define their kick points and hosel, which is especially important for shot release. They can also add more to the taper, another crucial element in shot release. Two-piece sticks tend to miss out a lot on the extra benefits.
Flex Rating
We know flex rating as a quantified number branding hockey sticks by how much they bend when you shoot. You may know that you play best with a 75 flex or when you need to change your flex, but not everyone knows what the number actually means.
The flex rating on a hockey stick signifies how much weight in pounds will bend the stick by one inch from a neutral position. For example, that 75-flex stick should in theory bend by one inch if 75lbs is applied to the stick. Some manufacturers may also define their flexes differently, which is another reason that it’s important to feel the stick a bit first before you buy.
Recent analysis in stick flex has demonstrated that a lower flex may actually perform better than higher flex. Many pro players today have lowered their flex to maximize their shot potential. So, when figuring out what flex is best for you, you will want to choose the lowest flex that does not break under your weight and shooting style.
Stick Breakage—The "Danger Zone"
Sticks are meant to take as much force that will bend them one inch from their original position. But beyond that, sticks may enter a “danger zone,” where they become more and more prone to breakage. Using a stick more often can also cause the resin to converge and stiffen. In some cases, a manufacturing defect may cause a bubble to form, which could mean early breakage (this is what the warranty is for). It may not break right away after the damage, but this is another way for your stick to enter the danger zone, and it could break after the next impact.
For children and younger players, halving body weight when determining an appropriate flex rating is a good idea. Older players may need to reassess their style of play and how much weight they put on their stick while shooting.
If you find yourself breaking your stick often, it may be time to reevaluate your playstyle or consider switching to a higher flex rating or point. Sticks are becoming more durable as manufacturers improve their materials. However, sticks are long and meant to bend, and they may eventually break. They do break and do so often, more so if the stick cannot adapt to the power you put into them.
Another option is to opt for a pro stock stick. Pro stock doesn’t offer a warranty, but they are cheaper, usually have a higher flex rating, and are made more durable and stiffer to complement professional hockey players’ playstyles.
Flex / Kick Point
The kick point, or flex point, is the area on the shaft where the stick flexes. This is further indicated by the kick point’s designation: low, mid, high, or hybrid.
A harder shot isn’t necessarily how hard you hit the puck, but how much you can increase the potential energy of the shot. The length of time the puck stays in contact with the stick, how far it travels while in contact with the blade, and where and how the stick flexes on the shaft can all contribute to shot velocity.
Following this logic, the higher the flex point, the harder the shot. On the other hand, the lower the flex point, the quicker the release. Most manufacturers have multiple stick families separated by kick point, although those manufacturers may also define their kick points differently.
The following are some graphics to compare stick families and where they sit in terms of kick point.
Low Kick Point
These sticks bend closer to the hosel. In practice, less of the stick contributes to the shot’s potential energy, since the stick loads lower on the shaft and closer to the puck. Less load means a weaker shot, but that also means it takes less time for the puck to release off the stick. They are ideal for players who play close to the net and prefer to beat their opponents with quick hands and quick shots.
Low kicks tend to be whippier and easier to flex, but that also means they may enter the danger zone more often. The lower flex point can also be a bit tougher to control, making these sticks potential liabilities for players, particularly defensemen, who need that extra assurance from their stick.
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Mid Kick Point
The label of “mid kick” covers the widest range of hockey sticks across the market. The range is both its major strength and its downfall. Most manufacturers define mid kick differently; for example, Bauer’s Nexus line and CCM’s Tacks line are both defined as “mid kick.” However, Tacks tends to perform closer to a mid-high kick, whereas Nexus is closer to a “true” mid kick or hybrid. Due to this, it may also take a bit of extra time to figure out which mid kick family fits your style more.
Mid kick sticks are a great middle ground between the quick-releasing low kick and its powerful high kick counterpart. They are useful if you are unsure what kind of stick you are looking for, or if you are seeking a stick with a higher or easier load than what you’re currently using.
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High Kick Point
This is the hardest and toughest stick type—it may be a bit more difficult to flex, but they offer the most puck control and potential energy. High kicks tend to run heavier since they are built for power and not necessarily speed, although that also results in their superior durability. The flex point is much higher on the stick, which increases that potential energy. Their durability and weight also give them a decent advantage in board battles. They are highly valued by defensemen and power forwards.
The high kick stick, now the rarest flex point, has slowly been disappearing in favour of mid and low kick sticks. An example would be Warrior’s old Dynasty line—this was a mid-high kick stick family that has now been replaced by their Alpha line, which is a mid-low kick stick family. Bauer Supreme is one of the last remaining stick families under this label. As the game gets faster, it unfortunately becomes harder and harder to use high kick point sticks to their fullest potential. Despite that, many players still make great use of them—Steven Stamkos is well-known for his rocket shots with the Supreme 1S.
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Hybrid Kick Point
Although technically only CCM’s Jetspeed holds the official label of “hybrid,” the hybrid kick point refers to any stick that functions as both a low and mid-kick stick. CCM’s Jetspeed and Bauer’s Nexus lines are currently the most popular hybrid sticks on the market. Warrior’s Alpha series could also fit this category, however, its singular lower flex point classifies it as more of a mid-low kick stick.
Identifying the spot where a hybrid kick point flexes most can be a bit tough, since it will feel like it flexes along most of the shaft. This is a result of its nature—these sticks adapt to your game, meaning they flex and tense up depending on where you place your hand during the shot.
This kick point is truly a jack of all trades—it may be good in all situations, but if you never find yourself in all situations, you may benefit more from a more specialized stick. These sticks are ideal for offensive defensemen and centremen, which are positions that routinely juggle both offensive and defensive responsibilities.
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Blade & Blade Stiffness
We tend to put so much of our attention into the shaft’s flex and kick point that we may forget that blades also have a stiffness rating.
Blade stiffness is usually adjusted based on the flex point to either enhance or balance that stick. As a result, most mid and high kick sticks will be paired with a softer blade, whereas low and hybrid sticks usually have a stiffer blade.
Soft blades tend to twist a bit more, which can lower your control of the puck. However, these blades use that torque to their advantage in mid and high kick sticks—that twist essentially adds another flex point, meaning more potential energy and power to your shot.
Stiff blades do the opposite—their rigidity increases your control of the puck. Since sticks with a lower kick point tend to be tougher to control, the stiff blade counteracts this by making sure the stick’s hold on the puck is more steady.
Blade Curve
Flex is one of the most important factors when deciding on a stick for kids who are just learning to play the game. The next will likely be the curve. Even the most advanced players are wary of changing their blade curve, since the change can completely make or break their shot, control, and pass release.
Traditionally, blade curves were named after prominent NHL stars, such as Sidney Crosby and Joe Thornton. Now, although some still hold labels like McDavid and Marner, curves usually go by P92, P28, W03, etc.
Blade patterns can also influence the ease or difficulty of taking certain shots. Delivering shots on the forehand will be easier with a deeper curve; conversely, backhands will be easier with a flatter curve.
Heel Curves vs Toe Curves
Just like the kick point, the puck’s movement potential is influenced by the curve and where the puck starts during the wind-up. More often than not, the puck will begin right where the blade is curved and release at the toe. You can imagine, then, that a blade that curves closer to the heel will generate more potential energy, making for a bigger shot—and you would be right.
Heel curves use that potential energy to generate more velocity for shots and passes, similar to high kick points. There is more space for the puck to travel and build energy with heel curves. You won’t find very many true heel curves today.
On the other hand, toe curves excel at stickhandling, performing toe drags, and shooting quickly. These blades complement low kick sticks and their users very well. Most blade patterns today are toe curves.
In the middle are mid curves, which are curved in the middle and offer a good balance between shot power and stickhandling.
Closed Face vs Open Face
Simply put, the more open a curve is, the easier it will be to raise the puck off the ice. Open face curves are ideal for players who need to raise the puck often, which will usually be those playing closer to the opposing net.
You won’t be able to see the face on closed face curves very well from above, which is a characteristic that makes it easier for them to keep the puck lower to the ice. These types of curves are most suitable for stay-at-home defensemen who shoot low through traffic near the blue line.
Common Stick Blade Patterns
The following is a quick rundown of the most popular blade patterns and their specs. The majority of sticks on the market will have options for these blades. For simplicity purposes, we will be referring to the blades mostly by their Bauer label, as their blade pattern names tend to be more recognizable.
Bauer P92 / CCM P29 / Warrior W03 / TRUE TC2
Mid-toe, Open Face, Round Toe
Inarguably the most popular blade curve and still going strong, the P92 blade gains its strength from its incredible adaptability and performance. It may be considered the ideal “beginner blade,” but don’t be fooled—many professional players still use this blade pattern and praise it for its high versatility.
It’s consistent, reliable, proficient at wrist shots and snapshots, and pretty good at raising the puck in tight situations. This curve does struggle a bit on the backhand because not a lot of the blade is flat enough to generate backhand power.
This blade pattern will fit most playstyles, so transitioning from a P92 to another blade curve should not be too difficult.
Bauer P88 / CCM P88/P40 / Warrior W88 / TRUE MC
Mid-heel, Slight-Open Face, Round Toe
The P88 is the most closed of the common blade patterns, with a balanced mid curve and a more traditional look and feel. This curve used to be much more popular, but it has started to fall out of style recently in favour of the P92 and P28 curves.
It tends to have a more rounded toe, though some variations like the P40 may have a more square toe. This curve is excellent at many of the things that the P92 is also good at, with a few more defense-oriented specialties. With its high accuracy, it excels at precise wrist shots and slap shots, as well as low shots and passes.
Of the common blades, the P88 will be the strongest on the backhand. Its closed face can make it a bit tougher to raise the puck, though that disadvantage could be helpful in the right situations; defensemen can shoot low through traffic and power up a harder shot without worrying about it fluttering up in the air and hitting something.
Bauer P28 / CCM P28 / Warrior W28 / TRUE TC4
Toe, Open Face, Round Toe
The P28 is built with rather aggressive features. Its popularity has been growing in recent years across most generations, specifically with younger players.
This blade pattern excels at stickhandling, toe drags, and raising the puck. It’s ideal for players who shoot off the toe, and it can increase velocity in both release and shot. If you’re a player who often battles in tight areas or plays up close to the goalie, the P28 curve may be a good option for you. Toe drags and quick-handed maneuvers are made easier with the end curve of this pattern.
The highly offensive construction of this blade means it could be difficult to adapt to if you’re used to straighter, more traditional curves. It sits at a 5 lie, whereas the P92 and P88 have a 6 lie by default. Its roundedness at the top can also make backhands more difficult.
P90T / P90TM / P92 MAX / "Pro Benn"
Mid, Open Face, Round Toe
Also known as the “Pro Benn” (Bauer) curve, the P90TM blade advertises itself as a combination of the ever-popular P92 and P28 curves with some added height. CCM has recently taken to reworking the P90TM, including lowering the lie.
The blade had originally been custom-built for NHL player, Jamie Benn (hence the name “Pro Benn”), and it gained enough popularity to enter the market for use by other NHL players and in stock sticks. The lower lie helps it to accommodate most players. Adding height to the blade may seem like an unnecessary change, but it can easily give you an edge during faceoffs and board battles.
This pattern could be described as a more advanced and offensive version of the P92. Beyond keeping its amazing versatility, it is also optimized for dangles and toe drags. It is still great at lifting the puck; just keep in mind that its curve makes it difficult to raise the puck and gain power on the backhand. If you’re looking for a more subtle change from the P92, the P90TM may be a good option for you.
Stick Blade Lie
Likely one of the most—if not the most—forgotten or ignored aspects of the stick’s specs is the lie. It is also one of the most important considerations to take when deciding on a new stick blade pattern.
Lie varies between 4-7 and refers to the angle at which the stick sits against the ice relative to your hand. You want the blade to sit as flat against the ice as possible; any deviation could hinder your control of the puck, regardless of other specs in the stick. The higher the lie, the more upright the stick; likewise, the lower the lie, the closer to the ice the shaft will be. Most sticks will sit between a 5 to 6 lie, and the lie you need will be influenced by your height and playstyle/skating.
One way to determine the best lie for you is to observe where your stick tape wears out the most. Your lie is likely the best one for you if it’s around the middle—if your tape wears closer to the heel, you may need to raise your lie; if your tape wears closer to the toe, you may need to lower your lie.
The blade patterns we covered earlier normally use the following lies:
- P92: 6
- P88: 6
- P28: 5
- P90TM: 5.5
Final Thoughts
It’s important that you feel the stick physically in your hand before you buy to make sure it’s a good fit and that you’re comfortable with it. The Hockey Shop has a shooting room for exactly this occasion—our Stick Demo Zone is perfect for testing out that stick you’re looking at buying. Our experts can also help you decide; they’ve tested every stick available in the store and can give their thoughts and suggestions if you’re still unsure.
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